|Common Angelfish Diseases|
Parasitic and Protozoan
This is a general disease chart of “some” of the common diseases or parasites that Angelfish can contract. These are treatments for Angelfish ONLY. Some fish can not withstand some of the treatments that I am suggesting for treating Angelfish.
I am not an expert at fish diseases but have had to deal with some of these things with my own fish at times. I can only tell you what worked for me when treating for these different diseases and parasites. Hopefully these things will be of help to some of you that are having problems with your fish.
#1. Hole-In-The-Head – HITH is caused by Flaggelates that live in the fish's gut. When the fish is under stress these flaggelates will multiply which will make the fish sick.
#2. Internal parasites – This could be flaggelates, or it could be worms.
#3. Gill Flukes – Is an external parasite.
#4. Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis) – Is an external parasite.
#5. Hemorrhagic Septicemia – Is a bacterial infection and is VERY contagious.
#6. Fungus – Looks like cotton on a wound of a fish. If not treated early it can be fatal to the fish.
#7. Fin and Tail Rot – Loss of fin tissue that results in ragged or split fins.
#8. Popeye, Bloat/Dropsy – I put all 3 together because a lot of the times I’ve seen a fish get all of these things at once in the more advanced stages.
|How do I cycle my new tank?|
Things you need to know, to do, and that you need to have to cycle your first angelfish aquarium. This is how to do it when you don’t have a healthy tank to take water, sponge filters, or substrate from.
|How do I pick out healthy Angelfish?|
When you go into your local fish store or even at a breeder's hatchery and you are looking for Angelfish to bring home, make sure you look them over very good, and also every other fish in the tank. I highly recommend to NOT purchase any fish that is in a tank with other sick fish, or in a tank that has dead fish in it. Most likely the other fish will eventually come down with the disease or bring the disease home to your own tanks and fish.
Look at the fins of the Angelfish for any ragged looking fins or white spots on the fish or anywhere on the body. The fins of the Angelfish should be spread open, not clamped. Clamped fins are a sign that the fish is under stress.
Look at the gills. If they are flared open or the fish is breathing heavily, that is not a good sign.
If the fish looks alert, has clear eyes and is swimming around and not hiding and you’ve checked the fish out by looking for the suggested “things to look for” in the above paragraphs…most likely the fish is ok. I would still highly recommend putting the fish in a quarantine tank for around 3 weeks before adding the fish into your tank with your other healthy fish. It’s better to always be safe than sorry.
|How can I tell the sex of my Angelfish?|
|There are some subtle differences that an experienced angelfish breeder can use to help identify mature males and females. The only sure way to distinguish mature males from mature females is to examine the breeding tubes during spawning. The female's breeding tube is wider and more blunt than the male's. Some describe the female’s breeding tube as looking like an eraser on a pencil and the male’s breeding tube is pointy like the sharpened end of a pencil. In some mature male Angelfish, they may show some other small differences. For instance, some may have a hump on the crown and some may be larger than the females, but this is not always the case.|
|How many Angelfish can I keep in my tank?|
|Depending on your water changing schedules (the frequency and volume of water you change), the amount of food that is fed and the type of filtration you have and the temperature you keep them at will determine allowable density for raising Angelfish. Of course, the more Angelfish you have in a tank the more frequent water changes you should do. If you want high quality looking Angels I would recommend starting by giving any that are over dime sized, at least 3 gallons per Angelfish. If over quarter sized, try to give them 7 gallons per Angelfish. Once they are mature and start to breed, it is best if you can give them 10 gallons of water per Angelfish.|
|Bare bottom tank VS Gravel?|
|Gravel is normal for show tanks, however it is not considered the best thing for breeding situations. Any tank with angelfish fry in it should be a bare bottom tank. The small food that fry need, will fall into the gravel where it can't be eaten and it will decompose, causing bacterial problems in the tank. For tanks with fry, it is recommended that a small pore sponge filter be used for filtration.|
|What other fish can I keep with my Angelfish?|
Angelfish seem to do best with other Angelfish. The reasons are that some fish carry diseases that are not an obvious problem with them, but can be very harmful to Angelfish. Without the proper quarantine procedures you can introduce these diseases to your Angelfish and cause them great harm or death. ALL new fish should be quarantined whether they are new Angelfish or any other types of fish that will be going into your healthy tank.
There are a few types of other fish that do well with Angels. Bristlenose Plecos, Cory Cats, Discus, Festivums, urarus and some tetras that can’t be eaten by Angels and are not fin nippers.
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